At first glance, it looks unpretentious. It doesn't exude the aura that an aloo tikki or dum biryani do. Even when decked up and dressed up like a bride, it doesn't assume lead star status in the line-up. It is like Rahul Dravid, steady, dependable and always playing second fiddle to the other Sehwags Laxmans and Tendulkars in the line-up. It doesn’t lend itself to poetry, give a foodstagrammer an orgasm or find mention in a 100 things to eat before you die bucket list. It has many secret admirers who outwardly pretend that they are most at home with an Italian dish they can barely pronounce and brush it off with varying degrees of embarrassment, like it is below their pretentiousness to acknowledge its existence.
On a bad day, it comes to the rescue of a tummy on a bender and on a good day it can empty a bottle of mango pickle. To an outsider looking in, the fierce and unflinching loyalty this dish maybe confounding, amusing even. Seemingly diminutive, it patiently awaits its turn without shouting out for attention and for that it deserves every accolade that it receives. This is the life and times of curd rice or thayir sadam as it is commonly known to us South Indians, a dish like no other.
Being born into a Tamil Brahmin
household, I am authorized to speak with some authority on thayir sadam and the hole it feels in the
culinary soul. For starters, no meal ends without a mandatory serving. There is
nothing embarrassing about get curd rice pangs even when you're surrounded by
food and curd rice isn't on the menu. After a very fancy meal in a costly
restaurant where you are made to feel small if you can’t pronounce Gnocchi, the first thing you do after going
home is look for any leftover rice and then open the fridge and search for
curd. A South Indian fridge without curd is like a Virat Kohli innings
without the words teri maa
ki.
Just a small helping of curd
rice and pickle can wash down a very good meal or make up what has been a
forgettable one. A Michelin star rated soufflé can top off a meal and inspire
ooh’s and aah’s while all the while one isn’t just digesting the pastry but
also the price, but it can't complete it. The beauty of curd rice actually lies
in its simplicity and its multi-tasking abilities. Firstly, it can be eaten
with almost anything (almost being the operating word). A personal favourite of
mine being gobi manchurain as the accompaniment. Secondly, it lends itself to
constant never ending improvement. At its most basic, all it requires is some
curd, a pinch of salt and some pickle. But grander versions are there for the
taking too. Add some coriander, throw in some grapes and pomegranate and you
have a meal fit for a king. Of course, sans all the above, you have a dish fit
to combat the e.coli bacteria. Thirdly, it is extremely light on the stomach –
how many ever servings you choose to heap on yourself.
Curd rice also lends itself to
humor. In many homes, it is an unwritten rule that mangoes can be consumed only after a mandatory serving of curd rice. The wait gets a tad frustrating when all
the mangoes are cut and kept tantalizingly in front of you. Realizing that the way to the mangoes was through the curd rice, a cousin decided to reverse
the food chain at meal time by asking for the curd rice to be served first. Of
course, all such grand illusions were put to rest and the mangoes had to wait.
So did the curd rice.
There are many factors that make
for a good meal. Some good cheers, some eye candy, some good conversation and
of course, an enriching spread. While curd rice may not make a chef wax
eloquent or cause one’s mouth to water in anticipation, it is an integral part
in the hierarchy of needs in many South India homes.
It may not make the world go
round, but it sure as hell makes a meal come full circle.
Thank you Pawan for this beautifully crafted post on the pedestrian dish Curd rice . It brought back a million memories .I remember the excitement of finding soft fluffy curd rice and spicy lime pickle in the bottom most container of my steel tiffin carrier !
ReplyDeleteAs a giddy headed teenager I went thru this phase of writing down recipes .. nurturing the fond hope of publishing my own cook book some day !! Curd rice in all its avataars featured in them .
One time I overheard a house guest talking to her sister over the phone .. "समझ में नहीं आता ..की साम्भर चावल में पूरी सब्ज़ी मंदी डाली थी और दही चावल को तो फ़्रूट सलाद बना दिया !! "The reference here was to Bangalore's famous Bissibele bhath and Curd rice with pomegranate ,seedless grapes , cashew and raisins !!!
As a 24 carat South India pardon me if find it blasphemous when one sees this on the menu of a Desi restaurant in the US !!
Curd rice...$ 11
(Sticky rice mixed with unsweetened yogurt tempered with a special blend of Indian spices ,seasoned with salt and garnished with choice of grated orange carrots, green grapes , pomegranate seeds , California raisins and macadamia nuts )
Chose any two
Extra side $ 1 each